Here are my thoughts on changing the plugs. This is a 1999 F53 with a 2 valve V10.
Before you start, use a blow gun and clean as much crap off the top as you can..
1) Mark a cylinder number on each of the Coil-On-Plugs (COP) so you know where they came from.
2) Remove the COPs.
3) Use a vacuum cleaner with a small hose and reach down in the spark plug holes and get as much stuff out as you can (small rocks, gravels, etc)
4) Use a blow gun and blow out each hole.
5) Use a long skinny screwdriver or pick, reach down into each hole and move around the plug. You can fell when the pick is between the plug and the hole wall. DON’T PRY – The goal is to go around the plug to loosen any debris that may be trapped, then suck it out with the vacuum.
6) Repeat 3, 4, and 5 until there is no debris in the hole
7) Squirt a few shots of PB blaster down into each hole. go eat lunch.
8) Use a long socket, knock the plug lose, i.e. maybe 1/8 of a turn, then snug it back up. Loosen a little more, 1/4 turn, then snug back up, Do this a couple times, moving the plug out more with each re-snugging. The goal here is to break up any ridge that forms on the end of the plug that could damage the threads as you remove the plug.
Make a note of any plugs that seemed to come out very easy, like they weren’t very tight.
9) I kept track of which hole the plug came out of, i.e. a piece of styrofoam with the cyl number on it. Then push the plug upside down into the foam.
10) Use the vacuum cleaner to clean out any debris that may be in the holes.. At this time the holes should be clean. If you want, carefully take a thin rag wrapped around the skinny screwdriver and wipe down inside the hole.
11) Inspect each plug carefully, looking specifically at the threads for any signs that the plug may have seized in the hole. Also look for any spark tracking up the insulator.
12) New plugs – Use a nickle plated plug, the color will be a silver color, not black. I used Autolite APP103. (Check for rebate) These are a high quality double platinum plug.
13) Use a very small amount of anti-seize on the threads. Don’t glob it on, a very thin coat on the threads only.
14) Install the plugs snugly. Torque each plug to 23 ft lbs. NOTE The factory torque calls for 160 inch lbs. (approx 14 ft lbs) Its generally accepted in the maintenance community that 14 is not enough and may be contributing to the spitting plug issue. 23 seems to be that accepted torque.
15) I’d recommend new COPs (I use inexpensive ones, $50 for all 10) However, at minimum, consider installing new rubbers, OR, inspect the old rubbers carefully for arcing.
Use a cotton swab and wipe a very thin layer (just a tiny bit) of silicon paste (Dielectric grease) up inside the first 1/4 inch of the boot.
16) I think the torque on the COP bolt is 120 inch lbs
Buy an inexpensive 1/4 and 3/8 drive torque wrench to use for plugs. When you store them, make sure to loosen the torque adjust bolt as lose as it will go.
Very good procedure. Also, while inspecting the plugs, note any that may show signs of oil, etc., that could indicate worn piston rings; look for any other signs that could indicate water getting into a cylinder (rusty appearance); and note any of the plugs that stand out from the others.
Ok love the step by step. I just changed all my plugs and one bad cop. One thing I did was take a Texas tooth brush to every hole to get ride of the carbon buildups. I did not bother labeling the cops because I did the one by one. I changed all the boots and fire wires “that was kind of tricky” l put dielectric grease on all the mating surfaces of the boot.
Great write up! Question, what does COP stand for?
Coil-On-Plug
Tktally enjoyed you i formation as I own a 1999 Pace Arrow V10 with the same themostate system. Now the big question is where did you get you paint work done? Price? Any window gasket replacement work done? Thanks
I painted it myself, about $1k in materials.. No need to do any window gaskets.
John
Great website , a wealth of information and help. I have the same year and Model southwind and ran into an issue with the Lippert power steps .
I am trying to find the model number of the steps to order a gearbox ….Any ideas ? what do you have on yours ?
I modified my junk Lippert step with a linear actuator and new switch off ebay. It is slower, but has been trouble free after 4 years.
The Lippert uses a window actuator out of a car and some goofy gearbox. If the failure is a broken tooth in the gearbox, you can take it apart and rotate the gear and buy some time.
I have the same RV with 40k miles. Thank you for the posts. I can do mechanical stuff but appreciate your guidance
There is a Ford service bulletin that says (if I remember correctly?) “loosen each spark plug 1/4 turn after cleaning the recess with air, then fill the hole with carburetor cleaning fluid and let sit for about an hour.” I found this service bulletin in the Ford jumble of stuff years ago. I have done this twice to my Ford V10. Apparently the purpose is to dissolve the carbon buildup on tip of the plug which sticks into the cylinder slightly and when removed can damage the threads in the aluminum heads.
Wish I had read this before changing the plugs in my 99 Itasca. I changed them because one of the plugs (one of the middle ones on the passenger side) blew out of the hole. One thing I noticed on the one that blew out was that the insulator was loose and my belief is that the continual up and down hammering of the insulator worked to loosen the plug and also probably damage threads over the years. The plug was an autolite as I recall but it could have been a motorcraft. As I removed the other 9 plugs I checked for loose insulators but didn’t find any more. Tempting fate, the new plugs I put in were the same brand as the old ones. I did have to replace one of the COPs as the rubber hose from the bottom of the COP and the plug self destructed upon removal. I used a stiff bristle brush on a vacuum cleaner hose (you can get these adapters for cleaning computer keyboards) to do a final cleaning of the threads. Also, I purchased a bore scope (you can get one that interfaces to a cell phone) and inspected the threads after cleaning. I found that there was no motion between 14 lbs of torque and about 23/25 lbs of torque but I torqued them all to 23/25 anyway. All in all it wasn’t a terrible bob but bending over the motor for all those hours was hard on a 77 y/o woman’s back.
AND – You save a lot of bucks by doing it yourself.
Petra
You Rock Young Lady!