The search begins. We usually spend 6-8 weeks out west during the winter months. During last years migration, one of the questions we wanted to answer was; “How will this (the Mirada) motor-home fit into our future?
Our 30ft. Mirada (above – SOLD) was a very simple, no-frills, entry level motor-home. I personally liked that, less complexity means less to go wrong.
But our next motor-home needed to be a little larger and have at least a living-room slide-out. We also wanted a table and chairs instead of the booth seats. After doing some initial searching of diesel pushers, I decided that whatever we upgraded to, it would be on a Ford F53 chassis.
Diesel Pusher (DP) vs F53
We initially started the search for a DP, mainly for the “Build Quality” aspects of the coach and its systems. However, the more I looked at the “chassis” part of our MH, the more I realized that a DP would not solve any problems for me, but could actually create problems, AND, at a much higher expense.
I’m intimately familiar with the Ford F53 chassis, if something goes wrong, I should be able to visit the local parts store and should be able to fix it myself.
But a DP chassis is an entirely different story, the systems are more complex, and parts to maintain / repair the systems are significantly rarer, AND more costly. Example – check the cost / availability of a engine oil filter for a Ford V10 vs the Cummins 8.3 L.
As for the coach (the house) as we started comparing the “Build Quality” between similar DPs and Gassers, depending on the model of the coach and where it stood on a builders lineup. The coach builders high end gassers were of equal quality as their DP models.
With the “Build Quality” in mind, for our dollars spent, we could get more coach for our money by selecting a gasser over the DP, AND, if I narrowed my search to the F53 chassis, I wouldn’t have to worry about the “Unknown to me” chassis. 
Our “Upgrade” is in reality two years older than the motorhome its replacing, but when we start looking at the systems, its obvious that the Southwind is a much higher quality than the Mirada and includes all the high end features that were available when these two coaches were manufactured. This would be a significant upgrade for us. Our “New-to-Us” Southwind is in excellent condition and we’re looking forward to getting many more years of service out of this fantastic coach.
CONSIDERATIONS:
If you’re buying a motorhome, here are a couple items that need to be considered.
The cost of traveling to retrieve your new motorhome. If you need to travel 2000 miles to buy a motorhome, then drive it back to its new home, this can easily add several thousand dollars to the cost.
Corrosion; southern motorhomes may have less exposure to harsh road chemicals then their northern counterparts.
Availability, price, selection; Southern states like Florida, Texas, Arizona will have considerably more motorhomes on the market than Montana.
PLACES TO SEARCH
The internet provides excellent places to start the search. Don’t be afraid to search outside your area.
PPL Motorhomes
Craigs List – search your area, and larger metropolitan areas around the US
e-bay
Camping World
local / regional dealers
HOW TO BUY A USED MH:
Don’t buy anything for a few months, use this time to learn. Start searching the market so you can see whats available, pricing, etc, etc. Learn the market. Generally, the fall is a good time to buy, the spring is a good time to sell.
After a few weeks of looking, the availability will start to seem overwhelming. PERFECT – this is the critical first step and proves one thing; There are plenty of motor-homes on the market, and if you’ve been doing your homework, you’ve actually found a couple that you really like and may have considered.
This initial “looking” will help determine whats important, whats available in the market, and how much will it cost.
By now, you should have figured out what its going to cost. So the next question will be, “how are you going to pay for it?”. Most dealers offer some type of financing, but financing is also available to you, even if buy from a private seller. A quick Google search of RV Financing will provide you with all sorts of options.
Start narrowing your search – i.e. We narrowed our search for a 34-37 ft coach, on a F53 chassis, with at least one slide, and a table chairs vs a booth seat,
BE PREPARED TO JUMP
At some point, continue the search, but now be prepared to jump when the right coach comes along. If you dilly-dally, that coach will be gone. You should have a good idea by now of what you’re looking for. You should also have developed a sense of emotional isolation, i.e. don’t get emotionally attached to the motorhome. You have your financial ducks lined up and ready to go, AND, you know a good deal when it pops up.
You must be ready to jump. its now time to NEGOTIATE. Regardless if its a dealer, consignment, or a private seller, make an offer, Don’t be afraid to low ball. If you don’t hear back or the answer is No, follow up with a question; “Where could we meet at on price?”.
QUICK CHECKLIST
This checklist would apply to any motorhome and chassis, but there are a few F53 specific items included that I specifically wanted to look at i.e. CHF – Cheap Handling Fix and the F53 Cruise control recall. There are other checklists on the internet that may be more or less detailed. This checklist took about 45 minutes to complete and allowed me to inspect and address issues that were important to me. This also showed the seller that I knew exactly what I was talking about when I made an offer.
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MANUALS
What manuals are included
OWNER MAINTENANCE RECORDS
oil changes, brakes, etc, etc,
OWNER COMMENTS
How long owned, reason for selling. major problems, etc, etc.
EXTERIOR INSPECTION
general inspection
Paint / decal condition
Delaminations (look under frig exterior door)
Rear view mirrors
baggage doors open
Baggage Locks (keyed)
Entry door lock (upgraded Trimark)
rust
tire date codes / condition
mud flaps
general wheel well condition
Windshield – Cracks / Chips
Windshield wiper
Furnace compartment
water heater compartment
Propane compartment
Frig compartment (also look for water intrusion and damage)
generator compartment
stove hood vent
hub caps (wheel covers)
windows ( rubber keepers)
Windows Double / single pane)
Awnings (fabric)
Awning rails, stops, and fittings, cracked slide fittings
Awning pull down rod
Window awnings
Spare tire and jack
City water connection
Shore Power Electric
Dump station
Water panel
Cable TV connection
Slide seals / toppers / rails
Ladder (and extension if required)
ROOF
Condition
vent covers and seals
AC covers
Frig Cover
Tank vent covers
skylight covers
TV antenna cable – brittle
HOOD OPEN
batteries condition (Chassis Coach)
Air Intake TSB complied with (F53)
Coolant (overflow bottle)
Oil (dipstick and fill tube)
Transmission (Dipstick)
Power Steering
Brake fluid
Washer fluid
Cruise Control recall (F53)
radiator
vacuum lines
power cables and wires
Kinked PS hose (F53)
Oil coating on radiator (from oil fill)
FRONT END (underneath)
Oil filter
Exhaust manifolds both sides
exhaust system
shocks
Brake pads and rotor
Brake hoses
CHF front
Transmission front / rear seal
Trans cooler valve
Park / Emer brake
Grease fittings
King pins
Air bags
bushings
belt
power steering pump
AC compressor
water pump
fan clutch
hoses
starter
Chassis to coach bolts / fasteners
MID SECTION and REAR END (underneath)
rust
U joints
Drive shaft coupling / bearing
Rear CHF
Rear shocks
Brake pads and rotors
Brake hoses
Rear differential vent
Speed sensor
Track bar
Air bags
suspension / spring bushings
Trailer hitch, bolts, welds, etc
Exhaust system
Generator exhaust
General condition of wiring
ENGINE INTERIOR
Alternator
Belt
Fan clutch
O2 sensor
Exhaust system
COPs
Vacuum lines
Manifolds Intake and exhaust
ENGINE RUNNING
Emer Start function
Transmission cycles in each gear
Check Transmission fluid in Park
ODBC Codes
Windshield wiper and washer
Rear view Camera
Exterior lights
Headlights / brights / DRLs
running lights
turn signals
brake lights
Exhaust leaks
Instrument Gauges working
Dash Radio
Dash A/C and Heater
Battery voltage
Leveling jacks
COACH
Battery
Charge with Chassis engine, charge with converter
AC POWER Shore power / Generator run
12 volt Converter, type
Slide out
leveler jacks
TV antenna crankup
Stove and oven burners
Hood vent and light
Frig ELECTRIC and Propane
Microwave
AC Distribution
AC outlets
TVs / remotes
Furnace
AC units
Power vents
Roof vent cranks
Ceiling vents (A/C)
Water system
Water heater (bypassed / winterized
chairs rotate / recline
CO alarm
Propane Alarm
Fire / smoke Alarm
Bath room toilet
Sinks Faucets
Sofa jackknife
Windows open / cranks
Window Screens
Window blinds / curtains
Cabinets drawers
doors and curtains
Internal lights
Entry light
Entry Step
Battery Disconnect switch
Status panel (tank levels, etc)
Light Fixtures (LEDs?)
Thank you for the details on your upgrades, the site is excellent. We upgraded from a pop-up to a 2000 Newmar Mountain Aire 38′ F-53 (long story, gift from in law). I did shock replacement to Koni, and bought 7 new tires, the Toyos in your pictures. Unfortunately, my neighbor has a diesel pusher and the ride quality difference kills me.
I noticed air bags in one of your pictures, and wondered if it helped the ride quality on the pavement joints, or was it just for sway? I need atleast rear air bags to get up my driveway, although the skid wheels are working for now. Thanks again.
So glad I found your website, so much valuable information and detail in these posts (currently reading through all of them). I recently purchased a 1999 Southwind with 90k miles. After three months of full time traveling in it, I’ve been a little discouraged as issues started building up. Been learning a lot about troubleshooting electric and mechanic systems. After 4 years are you still satisfied with the build and quality of your Southwind? Do you think it’s built to last compared to other moterhomes in that era/price range? Hoping mine doesn’t turn into a money pit — once everything’s fixed to not have constant major repairs, and more just preventative maintenance.
Yes, I’m still very satisfied. The build quality of the Southwind is generally top of the line. i.e. look at the cabinets, these are commercial grade.. You need to remember, its a 20 year old motorhome, on a 20 year old truck.
You really need to be a DIY person, otherwise any motorhome of this age could easily be a money pit if you had to write a check every-time you wanted to repair something.
ALSO – I kind of do this as a hobby, so this keeps me off the street at nights.